An In-Depth Look at the history of Patek Philippe Nautilus, the most special luxury sports watch ever.
In 1996, Ref.3800 had a major update with new dial and hands. One of the most characteristic features of Nautilus, the blue-colored and translucent dial was replaced with a matt black dial featuring Roman numeral markers. Unfortunately, the hands had their share of this facelift as well. Roman numerals were very popular and demanded in those years. In 1996, Patek introduced the new Nautilus with lugs and a leather strap instead of an integrated bracelet with a courageous decision. A new Nautilus joined the collection with the code Ref. 5060. It has lugs and a leather strap but no ear-like parts on the sides of the case. Eureka! Welcome to the family Aquanaut... Besides the fact that it didn’t know yet.
Patek Philippe Nautilus - 3800
Patek Philippe Nautilus - 5060 / Patek
Philippe Aquanaut 5060A
In 1998, Nautilus had its first complicated model, Ref. 3710. The model with a 42mm diameter stainless steel case had a power reserve indicator on the Roman numeral matte black dial. Although the asymmetrically positioned dial was enough to make symmetry addicts sick, Nautilus had another milestone in its history.
Patek Philippe Nautilus - 3710
In 2004, Jumbo Nautilus returned after 14 years, but Patek Philippe fans were not very happy with this news. The Ref. 3711, which replaced the 3700, unfortunately, came with the G case code, that is, 18K white gold, instead of stainless steel. The 3711 was a bridge between modern and original Nautilus designs. Instead of a solid case, the three-piece design, the sapphire crystal case back, rounded ear-like parts, the modern automatic movement Caliber 315 SC with Geneva Seal a black, horizontal striped dial and many more details attracted attention. The production life, which lasted only 2 years, ended in 2006.
Patek Philippe Nautilus - 3711
The complicated Nautilus family, starting with 3710, said hello to the Ref. 3712. The new model, which came with features like a 42mm diameter stainless steel case, dark blue dial with asymmetric indicators, power reserve display, moon phase, small seconds and date complications, as well as a micro-rotor movement, had a production life of one year only. Ref. 3712 took its place in the dusty pages of history as a legend of Nautilus.
Patek Philippe Nautilus - 3712
In 2006, on the 30th birthday of Nautilus, Patek Philippe introduced a new collection to the likes of its fans but this time, it did its homework. Nautilus model family would finally meet with the watch lovers with back to basic details as well as modern touches with the newly added four references. The Ref. 3712 model, which remained in production for only one year, was replaced by the 5712 with small updates in its dial and case, while the medium-sized 3800 model was replaced by 5800. After a long break, the original “Jumbo” appeared with the reference 5711. With a 40mm diameter stainless steel case, an integrated bracelet and a blue horizontal dial, everything was as it should be. The last member of the family was the Ref. 5980, another first in the history of Nautilus. Together with the Ref. 5712, the Mono-Compax chronograph model was entitled to fall under the category of complicated Nautiluses.
Patek Philippe Nautilus -
5712G-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus -
5800/1A-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus -
5711-1A
Patek Philippe Nautilus -
5980/1A-001
The 3700 known with the Jumbo nickname and the 5711 that replace it were different watches sharing the same platform. When we look at the modern version of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo, another Gerald Genta design produced in 1972, we see that it is more similar to its original version. For 5711, we can say that it was a different and new version of 3700. The solid case in the 3700 has been replaced by a three-piece case in 5711. Naturally, there were differences between the ear-like designs on both sides of the case. The 5711 was bigger with a slight difference compared to 3700. Most importantly, the 5711 had a second hand that, I think, shouldn't be on the dial. Although this seemed more like an obligation caused by the change of the movement, I am sure that Patek Philippe engineers could easily overcome this issue if they desired. On the other hand, it was a fact that modern details specific to 5711 both facilitated the production and made the overall design of the watch more attractive. The model was offered in 18K yellow and pink gold on bracelets or leather straps as well as a limited edition in platinum with blue dial.
Despite the differences between 5711 and 3700, there were fewer differences between 5712 and its successor in 3712. The most obvious ones of these changes were the larger case and the dial. The mid-size model 5800 was also acclaimed for being the successor of the 3800. Was it over? No.
In 2010, the 5726 Annual Calendar model was added to the Nautilus family. The case of this complicated Nautilus, which had the moon phase, date, month, day and small seconds dial on its dial, was 40.5mm in diameter. Let me add that, the white dial and steel case versions of the 5711, 5725 and 5980 were also available back then but now, only 5711 is available with a white dial. We should, of course, include Ref. 5990 to the list which was one of the most complicated and attractive models in the modern series. In addition to chronograph and calendar complications, the model, which was available with the name Travel Time Chronograph, had a second-time zone indicator that was operated by the pushers on the left side of the case.
Patek Philippe Nautilus -
5726/1A-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus -
5990/1A-001
In 2016, Patek Philippe introduced two new models exclusive to the 40th Anniversary of the Nautilus series. Platinum case 5711P and white gold case, chronograph 5976G. What was the result? It's a complete disappointment if you ask me. Oversized cases, 1976-40-2016 scripts on the dial, and inflated list prices, which I could never associate with Nautilus' simple elegance.
Patek Philippe Nautilus -
5711P
Patek Philippe Nautilus -
5976G
If we follow the chronological order, the Ref. 5740G should be the latest and most up-to-date model of the Nautilus family. As you can imagine, with its white gold case and perpetual calendar movement, it is one of the most demanding models.
Patek Philippe Nautilus - 5740G
Patek Philippe Nautilus continues to take the lead in the luxury and sports watch category since 1976. There is a very important date in a relatively distant future: 2026 i.e. the 50th anniversary of Nautilus. I hope that by this time, or at the latest, we will have the chance to see a delightfully designed Jumbo model that stays true to the original 3700, featuring no second hand, but also equipped with modern details as well. If such a model comes out, I am sure that we will be witnessing the world's most demanded and desired steel case luxury watch storming market, as we are now.
