Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet... I don’t think there is anyone who did not hear about this famous trio. Will the kings of luxury watchmaking be able to maintain their leadership in the new order?
Few businesses in the world are as loyal as luxury watchmaking to their traditions and history. Particularly when we consider the Swiss watchmaking industry, with the addition of unique brand values and hundreds of years of history as well as spectacular artisanship, we find ourselves in a billion-dollar industry.
Within this huge market, there are three brands, whose long-standing success has been accepted by the masses, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. These brands, ranging in age from 144 to 264, represent the highest point in classical watchmaking for years. The final position of these names, which are known for numerous complications, many special models and various records, is quite different from their starting points.
Patek Philippe is one of the rare watch brands that can survive without belonging to a group. In addition to being one of the first names that come to mind when it comes to complications, it has one of the most valuable labels in the world in terms of prestige and brand value. A magic hand touches PP in 1976. Knowledgeable readers should already have understood the owner of this hand. Of course, I'm talking about Gerald Genta. The product of that magic is Nautilus. Audemars Piguet also has an independent board. Its bumpy commercial life becomes inextricably in the 70s. Interestingly, the same magic hand touches Audemars Piguet as well. The result is the famous Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ you all know. Vacheron Constantin follows the same path in 1977. Inspired by Jorg Hysek and Genta, the “222” model, known as Overseas today, is born. These models were not only milestones in the steel-sports watch category but also gave their brands great commercial success.
Now, let's fast forward to the present where we live in the last days of 2019. While the unbelievably complicated Patek Philippes continue their existence quietly, there is this Nautilus hype going wild. I don’t need to mention the impossibility of buying the model for its MSRP in a short time... The same goes for the Aquanaut series as well. In short, the models that do not reflect the characteristic features of PP and the lowest price models in the product line are on the black market, while high-complication timepieces are in the hands of a few rich gentlemen only. The AP side is no different. Similar over-list pricing policies apply to Royal Oak models as well. Complications are also applied to Royal Oak modes while the situation for the rest of the product line is not that bright. Oh, there was a Vacheron Constantin, right? It’s even worse... Overseas, unfortunately, is not as popular as a Nautilus or a Royal Oak. Classic models continue to dust in showcases.
Enough of pessimism. Let's look at some rising stars. A. Lange & Söhne; German masterpieces are on the front lines as if they were preparing for a war to stop the monopolization of Switzerland in the business. Moreover, with dazzling movements, jaw-breaking artisanship, and competitive prices. It's not over yet... We wouldn't be exaggerating to call F.P Journe a living genius. Despite being a very young company, with its remarkable success and original designs that it has acquired over the years, it seems to be a candidate for being the address of extraordinary watches in the traditional watchmaking category.
If we took Nautilus from Patek Philippe and Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet, what would happen, I wonder... Are the kings still safe in their thrones, or will the new world order bring its new kings? We'll wait and see.
