We had a pleasant conversation with Antoine Pin, Managing Director of the Watch Division of Bulgari, one of the leading names not only in the world of watches but also in the luxury industry in general. Here is our interview where we talked about Bulgari's current novelties and future plans.
Earlier this year, you introduced novelties as part of LVMH Watch Week. Can you talk a little bit about the LVMH Watch Week experience in general? What are the differences compared to other watch exhibitions?
Since 2020, we have seen massive changes concerning the organization of watch fairs. We have seen the end of Baselworld, the redeployment of numerous fairs in different regions of the world, and the refocus on Geneva as the watchmaking beating heart - Watches & Wonders in April and Geneva Watch Days in September as major events.
As far as Bulgari is concerned, we are maintaining our approach to propose different meeting moments for our partners to match our yearly calendar, in line with our agenda. For each event, we are presenting a more limited number of products, allowing us to have a more structured, more focused communication.
LVMH Watch Week in January is for us the best way to kick off
the year, along with our sister brands from the group.
It allows us to meet our customers and the press in a certain part
of the world, this year in Singapore, and spend time together, away
from the hustle and bustle of multi-brand shows. The quality of our
meetings and encounters is highly appreciated by the guests.
What is the main theme for Bulgari watches for 2023?
2023 is a year of transition, taking Bulgari watches from a time when we had to prove our expertise and legitimacy and the time of maturity.
First of all, I think we need to free ourselves from the obligation to set a record every year. After 8 world records and 60 international distinctions, the Bulgari watches will remain in the decade to come – and especially with the Octo Finissimo collection - as the most awarded watches in the history of watchmaking and the first watch icon of the XXIst century. The launch of Octo Roma in April happens exactly to this trend.
Shortly, we are preparing our first book about Bulgari watches
to celebrate over 100 years of Bulgari watches. It is the perfect
moment to look at our heritage and the different expressions of
Bulgari watches. We have a long-standing watchmaking tradition. We
were already making jewelry watches at the beginning of the 20th
century, and this is still a key element in all our strategies
today. In essence, we make jewelry watches and I'm looking forward
to unveiling some of the dazzling creations we're working on
notably the launch of the new Serpenti Tubogas Infinity that kicked
off 2023 at LVMH Watch Week.
As much as Serpenti is an essential expression of jewelry watches,
being a jewel turned into a watch, it could not be set like other
watches. There was some type of paradox there. For the first time,
we can now set the watch with this extremely elegant line of
diamonds going through the entire length of the bracelet. For this,
we have completely redefined the manufacturing process of Tubogas.
For us, it is a superb expression of what a jewelry watch should
be.
We will also like to give the stage to artists and let them express themselves. Each collaboration gives us a different perspective on creativity, a technology that we have never done before. We increased our expertise on the request from our partners. A great artistic journey, a tough technical journey, but we come out of it richer from the encounter. Meeting the artists is always extremely rewarding, to listen to them and learn from them the new way of expressing beauty.
We saw many novelties regarding ladies' watches this year. What is the particularity of Bulgari's ladies' watches?
The notion of being a jeweler is essential, from two different perspectives. First, in terms of design, we create watches specifically for ladies, not just simply releasing a smaller version of an existing model. This idea of creating specific designs for ladies is pretty rare in the industry. Then, there is the idea of bringing as much horological substance, craft, and savoir-faire for our ladies’ watches as we do for our men’s watches. We have, for example, the recent Serpenti Tourbillon or the Piccolissimo caliber, but this is an ongoing process. The watchmaking or movement strategies are elaborated with both ladies' and men’s watches in mind. We are investing and developing expertise that can match different requirements from a design perspective. For example, the know-how in terms of miniaturization allowed us to bring developments both for Octo with the Finissimo saga and Serpenti with Piccolissimo.
In the last decade, we have created a new portfolio for Bulgari. When you look at our collections, Serpenti Tubogas is young - it has been on the market for only 13 years, Lucea - for 9 years, and Diva – for 7 years. We are the only brand with such young collections. But at the same time, already iconic, especially the Serpenti and the Tubogas. They are all inspired by our Roman origins. From Lucea to Serpenti – they have a unique Italianness art of design and a very strong character. Despite the brand's strong codes, such as the Serpenti or the Tubogas, Bulgari remains a brand capable, through its art of watchmaking and jewelry, of reinterpreting them through the decades to make them myths. We will promote them more and more. We do not intend to create new collections; the idea is to capitalize on those designs and evolve.
What kind of leverage does being involved in the high jewelry industry for a long time bring you in terms of luxury watchmaking?
Certainly the creativity of our incredible team here in Switzerland, who never stop pushing the boundaries and anticipating tomorrow's successes. Actually, this is quite natural. Basically, most jewelers are (selling) watches as an extension of their offerings, so every time you work in such a company, you are confronted with the world of jewelry even if you work on the watch side. You get to understand the different natures of the two worlds because they are very different. There are a lot of proximities, but also a lot of differences and that’s a unique experience you get. The confrontation between the worlds of watches and jewelry helps you understand wearability and desirability.
We see that the Octo Roma Collection has come to the fore this year. Could you briefly tell us the philosophy of the collection?
Octo Roma is a collection that we created intensively, and built to last, to give customers an interesting choice. I didn't expect the esteem held by connoisseurs, both customers and specialized media. I had underestimated its aesthetic potential. Octo Roma is becoming an important part of our watch portfolio as a style with roots. It is a classic watch with our Italian twist of elegance, embarking on the watchmaking excellence we have developed over the years. The more generous propositions of the case allow for enlarging the collection with all the chiming complications, and one signature model, the Striking. A fantastic unexpected great success, that that we have not ceased with enthusiasm and passion to nourish innovation and design, which is the demonstration of our hardy passion for watches.
Especially when we look at the last ten years, Octo Finissimo and the records it broke are among the first developments that come to mind about your brand. What plans do you have for Octo Finissimo?
Octo Finissimo is a pinnacle of the best of Swiss engineering, and at the same time, has defined a new style fitting with the 21st-century styling of elegant contemporary gentlemen. If I look at the whole Octo family, it is quite interesting, because they are fairly well-balanced between the two lines.
Finissimo and Roma correspond to two different types of customers. The Roma corresponds to someone who likes classic yet not-so-classic timepieces, with a fair character. It is easily wearable and appeals to a younger clientele. The Finissimo appeals above all to connoisseurs who already own several watches and want to add a very different watch with its own personality to their collection. It is clearly the star, and we are preparing uncommon complications and configurations which will create huge pride within the company. Another step in our artistic journey, there will be more artistic creations in the future. The Octo saga is only 10 years old, breaking 8 consecutive world records, receiving more than 60 international awards, and just beginning!
The Aluminum series hosts time-only models as well as Chronograph and GMT versions. Will we see color and/or material-limited novelties in the future, or will there be new complications?
The Bulgari Aluminum is a cool, versatile, and easy-to-wear watch. It is distinguished by its combination of Italian design and incredible casualness. A timepiece that perfectly embodies Bulgari's Italianità. This spring, light, and color are in the spotlight with three new creations that illustrate just how singularly in tune Bulgari Aluminum is with our times, the ideal companion for life's strongest moments and most beautiful emotions.
Regarding the latest novelties from Bulgari, which one is your favorite?
I love them all, but if I had to answer, I'd say I'm wearing right now the new Octo Roma, with one of our manufacture movements, automatic, three hands and date, with an elegant 41 mm diameter. I appreciate the discreet but sophisticated touch of the Clous de Paris finish, which brings light to the dial.
