Montblanc Star Legacy Metamorphosis Limited Edition 8, introduced silently during the SIHH 2019 exhibition, reveals the brand's expertise and capabilities regarding traditional luxury watchmaking.
I like the expression ‘wow effect” very much. It means something that makes you go wow... Let me give you an example; I have been interested in cars since I was very young. The period I started to research and learn about this interest, was my high school years. When I was 17, I saw a 1961 Ford Thunderbird in a car dealer displaying classic cars (back in the early 1990s). I came in and asked for the person in charge's permission to look at the car. He should have seen the enthusiasm in me; he began to explain the T-Bird in detail. I probably couldn't hide the smile on my face while he was talking about the features like power windows and air conditioning, as he paused and told me to push the steering wheel to the right. Of course, I was very surprised. Not sure what I was doing, I gently pushed the steering wheel. "Wow!" The steering wheel slid smoothly to the right and stopped with a clear click. Ford had designed the steering wheel of their Thunderbird, the flagship sports coupe of the time, with a slide function towards the center of the cabin so the driver can get out of the car comfortably. Now, that was a “wow effect” creating feature for me.
During my visit to the SIHH 2019 trade show, I saw a few novelties that made me go wow. The most remarkable ones were the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel and the Montblanc Star Legacy Metamorphosis Limited Edition 8, which is also the subject of today's review. Before moving on to the review, let's talk about the Montblanc Metamorphosis Concept first.
The Montblanc Metamorphosis Concept had its first product in 2010, after a tough five years-long research and development period. Montblanc Timewriter 1 Metamorphosis was a sports chronograph. Montblanc Metamorphosis II, which debuted in 2014, shared the same movement with its predecessor but with a more classical appearance. The subject of the review, Metamorphosis 3, came out as a truly different model with its radically renewed movement and design based on the Legacy Star platform. I guess you have already noticed that the model name has an 8 at the end. So, "Why does the name of the concept's third model end with the number 8?" The answer to that question is a mystery... Let's get to the details, shall we?
Montblanc Star Legacy Metamorphosis Limited Edition 8 comes with a massive case measuring 50mm in diameter and 18.9mm in height. Considering the case is made of 18K white gold, the model is hardly 'wearable'. The fully mirror-polish finished case has a winding crown with a Montblanc logo made of mother-of-pearl at 3 o'clock. There is also a lever, which looks like the ones in the Minute Repeater models, located on the right side of the case. This lever controls the feature that gives the Metamorphosis name to the model, which transforms itself by revealing two different faces. Sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating on both sides serve on each side of the case that is water-resistant up to 30 meters. There is nothing more to write home about the case. It reminds me of the NASCAR cars' bodywork. An extreme engineering spec setup and a shell that holds it together...
Designed with an anthracite background, the dial features locally applied "grain d’orge" Guilloché patterns. A set of 18K white gold hands accompany the large rhodium-plated Arabic numeral hour markers. The “filet sauté” style Guilloché patterns are present around the dial where an entirely handcrafted, miniature Northern Hemisphere globe figure is located at 6 o'clock. In the three-dimensional figure, there are continents and the oceans, while the disc made of aventurine at 6 o'clock represents the sky with moon and star shapes. The small second indicator, equipped with a steel hand, rests at 12 o'clock. The Metamorphosis function, which gives the model its name, works as opening and closing the indicators on 6 and 12 o'clock positions. When they are closed, the world time (via the Northern Hemisphere globe surrounded by a 24-hour scale ring) and day/night indication features are displayed. When they are open, the one-minute patented Exo Tourbillon, the Northern Hemisphere globe surrounded by the sky on an aventurine disc showing the stars and the realistic moon phases can be seen as well as the date display at 12 o’clock.
Behind this ‘wow effect’ guaranteed micro-mechanical wonder is the Montblanc’s manufacture Caliber MB M67.60. This work of art hand-wound movement consists of 718 components/61 jewels, operates at a frequency of 2.5 Hz/18,800vph and offers a power reserve up to 50 hours when it’s fully wound. The movement, which clarifies the existence of the 50mm case with its 45mm diameter and 12.87mm total height, is equipped with time display and world time features, a small seconds display, a date display, and a moon phase indicator, as well as the brand's Exo Tourbillon function. Visible through the sapphire crystal display case back, the movement tributes to the traditional decorative arts of luxury watchmaking with its rhodium-coated with circular graining plate and rhodium-coated with “Côtes de Genève” patterned bridges.
A gray Sfumato alligator strap and an 18K white gold folding clasp complement the model. The list price for the model at that time was USD 223,500.
As I finish my article, I will not talk about the user profile that I will recommend this watch to, neither compare it with equivalent models from other brands. Before making comments about the MSRP of this watch, which I enjoyed every minute I spent with it, let's go back to the days just before the world virtually stopped turning. I am talking about the times when a second-hand stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus, which does not even have a hack-second feature, was sold like hot cakes at USD 70,000. I think USD 223,500 is nothing but an understatement for this stunning timepiece.
