We compare all the perpetual calendar models in the current collection of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series, one of the most popular models of high watchmaking.
In today's watch world, the name Audemars Piguet takes on a whole new meaning with the Royal Oak collection, created by the legendary watch designer Gerald Genta. The Royal Oak models, the father of integrated case and bracelet design, are among the most successful and bold watches of Haute Horlogerie.
Audemars Piguet features many complications within the Royal Oak family. Perpetual calendar models are among the most remarkable and desired time machines of the brand. Today, in the AP catalog, we see nine different perpetual calendar models under the Royal Oak series. The first model is called simply Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.
It is possible to come across seven different references for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar family. These models are respectively, stainless steel case/blue dial, titanium case/blue dial (black sub-dial), titanium case/salmon dial, 18K rose gold case/blue dial, black ceramic case/skeleton dial, white ceramic case/blue dial ( white sub-dial) and blue ceramic case/blue dial combinations. The black ceramic case and black dial version, which was produced until recently and has become one of the most popular versions of the Royal Oak, is discontinued. While the titanium case/salmon dial model is limited to 300 pieces, there is no production quantity restriction for other versions.
All watches have 41mm x 9.5mm cases. Only the black ceramic case and skeleton dial version’s thickness is 9.9mm since the skeleton dial is thicker compared to the standard series. All models have sapphire crystals on the front and back. The waterproof values of the models are specified as 20 meters. So, if you have a perpetual calendar AP Royal Oak on your wrist, more than just splashes of water while washing your hands can be dangerous for your watch.
The dials of the models feature month and leap year indicators at 12 o'clock, a date hand at 3 o'clock, a moon phase window at 6 o'clock, and a day hand at 9 o'clock. The beveled bezel framing the dial displays the week, which is indicated by a central hand. All watches feature the automatic Caliber 5134 (5135 for the skeleton dial version), developed and manufactured in-house. This tiny movement, based on the legendary Caliber 2121, consists of 374 parts. The 29mm x 4.5mm movement has 39 jewels, beats at 19800vph, and offers a power reserve of 40 hours.
Another extraordinary model among Audemars Piguet's perpetual calendar models stands out with its Ultra-Thin designation. The model family, which was first introduced as Research Development (RD) #2 at the SIHH fair in 2018 and got a standard production version the following year, manages to attract attention with its extraordinary thickness of only 6.2mm.
The Ultra-Thin model has a 41mm titanium case and a titanium bracelet, but unlike other models, it has a platinum bezel. The case sports sapphire crystals on both sides and is water-resistant to 20 meters.
The "hobnail" dial, which has become one of the signature designs of the Royal Oak family, is not included in this model. On the dial of the Ultra-Thin model, from top to bottom, the moon phase window, the day on the left, the moon hands on the right, the day-night indicators on the left, the leap year indicators on the right, and the date indicator below them. Powered by the in-house automatic Caliber 5133, which was produced after a 5-year development process, the model makes its user feel the justified pride of being able to host an extremely complicated movement with a thickness of 2.9mm. Composed of 256 parts, the movement has 37 jewels, beats at 19800vph, and offers a power reserve of 40 hours.
Among the perpetual calendar models of the AP Royal Oak family, there is a model that deserves a separate review title. The most complicated model of the Royal Oak series: Openworked Grande Complication.
Measuring 44mm x 14.8mm, this beast has a titanium case and bracelet. As the name suggests, Grande Complication has been able to fit three of the most important complications of high watchmaking, such as the perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, and the minute repeater, into a single case. The case sports sapphire crystals on both sides and is water-resistant to 20 meters, as in the other models of the series.
The Royal Oak Openworked Grande Complication model includes week, moon phase, date, day, month, and leap year information on its sapphire crystal dial, as well as a split-seconds chronograph that can count up to 30 minutes. Finally, the minute repeater complication starts to work with the sliding of the button located on the left side of the case. Inside the case is the Caliber 2885. The movement, assembled by a single watchmaker, consisting of 648 parts/52 jewels, measures 31.6mm x 8.6mm, beats at 19800vph and offers a power reserve of 45 hours.
