Here we are with the recently introduced Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” with comments about the brand’s successful rise...
If I leave my editor identity aside and look at the case only through the perspective of a watch enthusiast, I can't even remember when the Heritage trend came out... This trend was so integrated into the world of watchmaking that the first members of the Heritage concept actually became Vintage or about to be. This trend, which has emerged as a reflection of the everlasting "longing for the past" theme during the crisis that the watch industry has entered, still continues its popularity despite being well over twenty years old.
Like every other trend, the Heritage trend is known by major brands. In reality, this concept, which offers products from many different segments, brings a wide variety of options. However, this does not change the fact that certain brands carry the flag.
Tudor is one of the first names that come to mind in this regard... The brand, which has continued its activities under the auspices (or under the shadow) of Rolex for many years, has managed to become one of the shining names of the last decade with the help of successful management and marketing strategies. So, what was the secret to this success?
It is possible to say that the auction houses are the environments where vintage watches change hands in the most 'formal' way. In almost all of these auctions, which attract great attention of watch enthusiasts from all over the world as well as 'traders' of various levels, it is likely to see a Vintage Tudor. Which model of Tudor? Submariner, of course. The one with the snowflake hands... Are we getting close to the answer now?
Tudor, who shared its design codes with Rolex for years, tried not to be a 'generic' product or a sub-quality brand by offering small touches in addition to the outsourced movements while designing its models. In fact, having a big name behind in terms of both technical and brand value is one heck of an advantage for anyone. Let's reverse the places; I guess every one of you thought about the Grand Seiko. Seiko, mostly known for its entry-level products for ages, has made a great effort to establish the premium identity of the Grand Seiko brand.
For Tudor, which entered the 2000s, when major innovations were taking place in the world of watches, under the auspices of its big brother Rolex, the turning point was the Heritage Chrono that it introduced in 2010. The brand, which continued to exist in the chronograph segment with Prince Date models, which has been seen as an affordable alternative to Rolex Daytona for years, made a big impression with its brand new (but also old) model that was inspired by the late 60s. Tudor, who managed to take its place in the spotlight, hit the knockout punch with the Heritage Black Bay, introduced in 2012.
Chasing after the vintage Tudor Submariner samples with snowflake hands in various environments, watch enthusiasts suddenly came across a magnificent timepiece that redefines the expression of 'best of both worlds'. After all, who could say no to a brilliantly put together Tudor Submariner snowflake revival anyway?
Tudor, entering a new era, also knew how to use this advantage very well. It continued to keep the Heritage Black Bay product range up to date with alternative materials, in-house movements, and different colors. Being aware of the fact that a brand should not build its entire marketing strategy on reviving its old models, Tudor did not neglect to give the same importance to its other product groups.
Let's get to the model after this short(!) introduction, shall we? Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue, which we recently hosted on Horobox pages, uses the relatively more compact Fifty-Eight platform from the brand's diver’s watch product line. The main difference between the new model and the previous versions is that it comes with a navy-blue theme. Frankly, I don't know why Tudor was so late to use this color because the most desired examples of Vintage Tudor Submariner models have always been the blue dial versions. On the other hand, I think offering this color through the Fifty-Eight model family with a 39mm diameter and no date window is a perfect decision.
The version I opted for review comes on a blue denim strap, which I see as the most successful alternative in the collection, both in terms of color and material. In addition to its excellent material and craftsmanship quality, the model, which is water-resistant to 200 meters like a proper dive watch should be, beats with the manufacture (there is a Breitling partnership but, it does not affect the result) Caliber MT5402. COSC certified self-winding movement offers a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound.
From its high-quality feeling on the wrist to the solid operation of the winding crown, I can say that the watch is "almost" perfect in many ways. The reason that I said almost is all about the bezel insert material. The bezel (and the insert) is a highly unprotected component against severe impacts, especially in bigger watches. Frankly, I found it strange to use an aluminum insert instead of ceramic, which is on the way to become the industry standard. Besides, an insert suitable for the vintage theme of the model could easily be designed with modern materials as well.
The version I have here, along with the Soft-Touch strap version, shows up as the entry-level alternative of the collection with its CHF 3100,00 price tag. For the watch enthusiasts who say, “A diver’s watch should be worn on a metal bracelet” there is the CHF 3400,00 version equipped with a retro-looking riveted stainless-steel bracelet.
