Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-001, one of the most talked-about novelties at the recently ended Watches & Wonders 2021 exhibition, is under the spotlight with all its details.
Patek Philippe's top hit at the Watch & Wonders 2021 trade show ended in recent weeks was the green dial Nautilus, which also set the finish line for this sport-luxury model family. However, the horological novelty of the brand came from the Calatrava collection, known for its elegance within the Patek Philippe product line. The newly introduced Ref. 5236P-001 took its place among the favorite models of the fair with its new (and patented) interpretation of the perpetual calendar complication.
The new model displays the day, date, and month in a single line on a long, horizontal aperture below 12 o'clock - a layout that Patek Philippe has used in pocket watches throughout history. Featuring a lacquered blue gradient dial and a new self-winding movement in a 41.3 mm case made of Grado 950 platinum, the model further reinforces Patek Philippe's expertise in producing perpetual calendar models.
It is also very important that the brand has overcome many challenges while designing this exclusive model. The first of these was to combine a complication that gives more than one piece of information like the perpetual calendar with an easily legible single line display. Of course, the only solution to this issue was to develop a new movement that could provide a suitable and legible indicator in the form of a single-line linear display. Patek used the Caliber 31-260 REG QA, which gave life to the Ref. 5235 Annual Calendar that debuted in 2011 as the basis for the new movement. This movement, which is the perfect platform for the refinement required thanks to its recessed micro-rotor, has been almost completely redesigned and named Caliber 31-260 PS QL. The PS suffix in the reference of the movement stands for the "petite seconde" (small-second), and the QL did the same for the "quantième perpétuel en ligne" (single-line perpetual calendar). The engineering genius in the redesign of the movement was evident as the movement measures the same (diameter 31.74mm, height 2.6mm) with the Caliber 31-260 REG QA, despite all the extras.
The platinum rotor added to the new movement gave a great advantage to the winding system, as it was heavier than its predecessor made of 22K gold. The modern 4Hz (28.800vph) operating frequency was also one of the features of the new movement.
A total of 118 pieces were used in the perpetual calendar module, which was designed as a separate module with its own plate. The mechanism is designed to power four discs that can stay in the same plane thanks to the brand-patented dual ball mechanism using the same axis. Another innovation subject to patent is the "anti-double-jump" system that allows the discs to remain stable at the time of adjustment or in the event of an impact. In the perpetual calendar function, the mechanism that allows the transition from the 31st to the 1st of the month was the subject of the third patent application in the movement.
To balance the in-line displays, the leap year indicator was placed at 4 o'clock while the day/night indicator was located at 8 o'clock, both in the form of a round window. The moon phase indicator, one of the indispensable features of the perpetual calendar models, is also positioned inside the small seconds counter at 6 o'clock. After solving the legibility issue, Patek Philippe also offered a user-friendly feature for the setting part by locating the recessed pushers that allow the adjustment of the functions according to the position of each indicator.
The remaining features of the model follow the modern Calatrava concept. The gradient blue dial hosts baton hour/minute hands and markers. The stylish case, completed with an elegant winding crown, is made of Grado 950 platinum alloy. A blue alligator strap, fixed to the wrist with a platinum buckle, complements the model.
Despite being overshadowed by the green Nautilus, Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-001 took its place in our pages as a significant model by combining the perpetual calendar function, which is one of the main areas of expertise of the brand, with both Patek Philippe's rich history as well as a modest collection like Calatrava.
